![voron vs hypercube voron vs hypercube](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EksAAOSwdHteiwnK/s-l640.jpg)
However there's no reason you couldn't use CF tube/rod and bushings on a Voron with a bushing holder something like this: The lighter X gantry on the HyperCube allows better print quality at higher speeds. The recommended X rods for the HyperCube are 10mm carbon fiber with Igus polymer bushes, whereas the Voron uses 8mm steel and linear bearings.
Voron vs hypercube mods#
There seem to be more mods out there for the HyperCube, but I could be wrong.
Voron vs hypercube series#
The HyperCube only has a few partial assembly series on YouTube by various people.
![voron vs hypercube voron vs hypercube](https://the3dprinterbee.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Voron-vs.-Hypercube.png)
The Voron has vastly superior build documentation. The Voron uses at least some imperial measurements (eg: 12 inch bed), the HyperCube is all metric. There are plenty of dual-Z mods for the HyperCube, including the HyperCube Evolution which strengthens the frame. The HyperCube uses a cantilevered bed which is fine for small (200mm) bed but no good for larger (300mm) beds, the Voron uses two Z screws which seems good for up to 500mm. The HyperCube uses a DC-powered bed and the Voron uses a mains-powered bed, however there's nothing to stop you using a DC bed on a Voron or a mains bed on a HyperCube. We will see how it goes as my goal is to be done with my machine by the end of this year. If they don't work out for me I can easily go to rods but I suspect they will not work out for me on Z if anywhere.Ī side note is I am no longer a wheel freak after playing with them I see a lot of potential issues so I jumped off of that hype train last year. My design is a 500mm cube Hypercube using wheels and not bearings. From what I saw of the bed design on the Voron I will go back and tweak some stuff for sure and I will say 10mm, or even 12mm, smooth rods for Z or go home. In my opinion Voron's bed + the simplicity of the Hypercube design makes a marriage of the two a no brainer. In all honesty with a 300x300x375ish mm printing area the cantilever is a nono and needing a 450-700 watt heater for the 6mm thick tool plate means you will need a SSR+mains voltage setup. You know I have had my Hypercube frame built and ran into life and a lot less time but my design I did in SW seems to be the Voron bed setup with the rest being a Hypercube and not until just now (I was looking for some T8x2 2 start rods for my old Prusa so I can start back working on my design) had I heard about the Voron. The reason I am on Vorons now are because of the mods - the modding community is massive, and precise - the mods work as intended. Hypercube Evo was also generally cheaper overall with it's linear rods and simple Z, compared to say a Voron V1.8. I'm finding the Voron builds a lot more laborious than the HyperCube that I knocked out in a weekend. The Voron builds are a good bit more detailed with a lot of small parts to weed through. You should have assembly experience or serious overhaul/upgrades done to another printer first to get your feet wet.
![voron vs hypercube voron vs hypercube](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/oi0xZO1Fy7M/maxresdefault.jpg)
However, it would not be your first "let me build something" printer. The Vorons are great builds with great documentation. It's a great adventure to learn all about the parts as you build. The HyperCube is by far simpler in design and build. I've built a Hypercube Evo(lution), and currently building two Vorons (V0.1 and V2.4 350 3). I'm sure you've built/bought another printer by now (4 years later). and we've tried to include the most common choices for a smooth build.Well, now that Reddit has unlocked "Archived" posts for commenting on oooollllllddddd posts. This frame kit includes all Black Anodized extrusions, fasteners and nuts needed to build the HEVO! This kit is based on 4/5 different B.O.M.
Voron vs hypercube full#
This is a Full frame Kit for one of the most popular DIY Printer Builds at the moment, the Hypercube Evolution.